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Other cultivars/species:
Many
different species and cultivars. |
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Extra notes and
interesting information:
Helleborus orientalis hybridizes easily and many varieties exist
that are difficult to tell apart. In 1894 the name Helleborus x
hybridus was coined to cover the vast number of H. orientalis
hybrids.
Cut
the leaves to the ground in winter to prevent disease and make
flowers more visible.
Mulch
the soil to keep it cool in the summer and to provide more
organic matter.
What
appear to be petals are actually sepals (the protective scales
around a bud) – the petals have become nectarines.
To
display cut flowers, make several holes with a needle along the
full length of the stem, and immerse the entire flower in water
for an hour. Otherwise, the flower will droop quickly.
Flowers may also be floated in a bowl of water. |
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References:
Strangman &
Rice. 1993. The Gardener’s Guide to Growing Hellebores.
Timber Press, Portland, OR.
Kathleen
Norris, Ed. 1995. Sunset Western Garden Book, 40th Anniversary
ed. Sunset Publishing Corporation, Menlo Park, CA.
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at
a glance:
Common Name:
Orientalis hybrids
Plant type:
Perennial
Family:
Ranunculaceae
Height/Spread:
1½’ tall by 2’ wide.
Leaves:
Palmately
lobed, 5-11 toothed leaflets, dark green, leathery. Grow
independently from different points on the ground.
Flower:
The 2” flowers are cup shaped and come in a large variety of colors:
white, rose-pink to deep maroon, with an array of spots and stripes.
They rise from the ground on separate stems.
Bloom Period:
February-April
Disease/pests:
Basically free of
problems, but fungus or black spot may develop in cool, wet areas.
Conditions:
Sun or partial shade
in the Pacific Northwest; more shade is needed for hotter
regions. Soil should be well drained and rich in organic matter. Prefers a more alkaline soil.
Natural Range:
N.E. Greece and
European Turkey.
Hardiness:
Zones 2-10,
and 14-24
Location: Waterwise Garden, Perennial Border, and
the Shorts groundcover garden |